Baking From Northern Italy, By Richard Sax - 2 Recipe
Yield: 1 servingsRecipe by luhu.jp
Ingredients:
SERVINGS
SOURCE: GOURMET MAGAZINE, 02
FROM: SALLIE KREBS
Directions:
Gubana has traditionally been baked at Easter but is now a typical
part of several holidays. "Everyone has heard of panettone," says
Carol Field in her fine book The Italian Baker, "but even many
Italians are unaware of gubana, the Easter bread of Friuli. " Lore
has it that this coiled, nut-filled yeast bread originated either in
the village of Gorizia or in the village of Cividale. The name,
however, indicates Slavic origins and probably derives from the
Slavic guba (roughly, "folded"), which describes its characteristic
snail shape. Some people claim that the name is derived from bubane,
or "abundance" in the Fruilian dialect. (The Italian term is
Cuccagna, which Mary Taylor Simeti eloquently describes in Pomp and
Sustenance as a mythic land of plenty, with mountains of macaroni and
Parmesan cheese. The same term has survived in English as
"Cockaigne," which the Rombauer family used to designate their
favorite recipes in Joy of Cooking.) Gubana is a luscious bread, with
a rich yeast dough spiraling around a mixture of nuts and raisins
moistened with grappa and/or other spirits. The time-honored formula
calls for equal weights of dough and filling; one local baker told me
he uses even more filling than dough for each loaf. Frequently,
slices of gubana are sprinkled with additional grappa or slivovitz
(bitter plum brandy) when served. As is frequently the case with
regional and folk recipes, there are several versions of gubana, and
it also has two close relatives, putiza and presniz (see recipes
below); confusion among them is widespread. In one town gubana may be
called putiza. Some bakers make a version of gubana using puff pastry
instead of yeast dough; just a few miles away, it may be called
presniz. Some might view this as imprecision. I prefer to see it as a
lack of dogmatism, and I consider it one of the joys of Italian
cooking. The filling in the recipe below comes from Andrea Purinam,
who, with his father, runs Il Fornaio di Mario Purinam, an
outstanding bakery in the lovely town of Udine, capital of the
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region. Here gubana and pinza, another sweet
yeast bread, are available year round. When I visited one October,
Andrea was starting a flour and water mixture that would ripen for
two weeks. This "mother," which raises the dough without yeast, was
the first step in making gubane for Christmas. Andrea also uses a
slow four-rise method for his dough. The following gubana recipe is
actually a hybrid, using Andrea Purinams nut filling and Simone
Supanza dough and assembly method. (Gubana recipe here) (this
precedes the Putiza recipe) Early on the morning after that raucous
lunch, I met Simone Supanz in the labyrinte work area behind his
wood-paneled bakery. The way he stretches the dough for his putiza
(sometimes spelled potiza) is a marvel; once in motion, this sturdy
man moves with fluid, athletic grace. Like the gubana above, putiza
is made by spreading a nut filling over a yeast dough, rolling it
jelly-roll fashion and stretching it, gently but decisively, before
it is coiled into its characteristic snail shape. Putiza can also be
found in cookbooks from Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. The etymology
of both putiza and gubana shows the Slavic influences on the Trieste
dialect. Potica (the Slavic spelling) is thought to be a contraction
of potivica, from potive ("rolled," "wrapped up"). Putiza is
excellent with tea; people in this region offer it when visitors stop
by for a caffe or grappino. And Simone also suggests sprinkling the
slices with a little more grappa or slivovitz.
Submitted By SALLIE KREBS On 12-07-94
Source from luhu.jp
part of several holidays. "Everyone has heard of panettone," says
Carol Field in her fine book The Italian Baker, "but even many
Italians are unaware of gubana, the Easter bread of Friuli. " Lore
has it that this coiled, nut-filled yeast bread originated either in
the village of Gorizia or in the village of Cividale. The name,
however, indicates Slavic origins and probably derives from the
Slavic guba (roughly, "folded"), which describes its characteristic
snail shape. Some people claim that the name is derived from bubane,
or "abundance" in the Fruilian dialect. (The Italian term is
Cuccagna, which Mary Taylor Simeti eloquently describes in Pomp and
Sustenance as a mythic land of plenty, with mountains of macaroni and
Parmesan cheese. The same term has survived in English as
"Cockaigne," which the Rombauer family used to designate their
favorite recipes in Joy of Cooking.) Gubana is a luscious bread, with
a rich yeast dough spiraling around a mixture of nuts and raisins
moistened with grappa and/or other spirits. The time-honored formula
calls for equal weights of dough and filling; one local baker told me
he uses even more filling than dough for each loaf. Frequently,
slices of gubana are sprinkled with additional grappa or slivovitz
(bitter plum brandy) when served. As is frequently the case with
regional and folk recipes, there are several versions of gubana, and
it also has two close relatives, putiza and presniz (see recipes
below); confusion among them is widespread. In one town gubana may be
called putiza. Some bakers make a version of gubana using puff pastry
instead of yeast dough; just a few miles away, it may be called
presniz. Some might view this as imprecision. I prefer to see it as a
lack of dogmatism, and I consider it one of the joys of Italian
cooking. The filling in the recipe below comes from Andrea Purinam,
who, with his father, runs Il Fornaio di Mario Purinam, an
outstanding bakery in the lovely town of Udine, capital of the
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region. Here gubana and pinza, another sweet
yeast bread, are available year round. When I visited one October,
Andrea was starting a flour and water mixture that would ripen for
two weeks. This "mother," which raises the dough without yeast, was
the first step in making gubane for Christmas. Andrea also uses a
slow four-rise method for his dough. The following gubana recipe is
actually a hybrid, using Andrea Purinams nut filling and Simone
Supanza dough and assembly method. (Gubana recipe here) (this
precedes the Putiza recipe) Early on the morning after that raucous
lunch, I met Simone Supanz in the labyrinte work area behind his
wood-paneled bakery. The way he stretches the dough for his putiza
(sometimes spelled potiza) is a marvel; once in motion, this sturdy
man moves with fluid, athletic grace. Like the gubana above, putiza
is made by spreading a nut filling over a yeast dough, rolling it
jelly-roll fashion and stretching it, gently but decisively, before
it is coiled into its characteristic snail shape. Putiza can also be
found in cookbooks from Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. The etymology
of both putiza and gubana shows the Slavic influences on the Trieste
dialect. Potica (the Slavic spelling) is thought to be a contraction
of potivica, from potive ("rolled," "wrapped up"). Putiza is
excellent with tea; people in this region offer it when visitors stop
by for a caffe or grappino. And Simone also suggests sprinkling the
slices with a little more grappa or slivovitz.
Submitted By SALLIE KREBS On 12-07-94
Source from luhu.jp