Chez Michel Recipe

Chez Michel Recipe

Yield: 1 servings
Recipe by luhu.jp

Ingredients:
No ingredients,
In his European training and his broad work experience, Roberto

Directions:
Gerometta is representative of San Franciscos cosmopolitan cooking
tradition and of the diversity found in the citys finest restaurant
kitchens. Born near Venice, Italy, educated in France where he
attended design and culinary schools, Roberto has worked in Europe,
in the Bahamas, in New York City at La Caravelle, in Los Angeles at
LHermitage, and in Seattle where he had his own restaurant. He is
now in San Francisco, at Chez Michel. The restaurant is a beautiful
showcase set beside cable car tracks leading down to San Francisco
Bay.

Chez Michel is a pleasing blend of decorative fabrics, pale
woods, and brass. Its two dining rooms, full bar, and airy
spaciousness are redolent of contemporary French design elegance.
Particularly striking are vivid, multi-colored fabric ceiling panels.
Like a summer pavilion cooled by gentle breezes, the dining rooms
beneath the fabrics are gracious and comfortable, enfolding the diner
in a welcoming cocoon of contentment.

The restaurants design is ideally suited to Robertos talents.
Because the cooking area is open to one of the dining rooms, the chef
is always on view. And because Roberto is a lively, personable man
who works well under pressure, he thrives in the stage atmosphere of
that kitchen.

The menu is principally Robertos creation but is more a
reflection of what the clientele want than what he would like to
offer. Filet mignon, onion soup, rack of lamb, and steak tartare are
expected. Roberto favors more variety but believes his customers are
not yet ready for great inventiveness. Consequently, he seeks to
marry traditional fare with new, subtle tastes.

For this menu, he decided upon a mousseline of frog legs and
stuffed leg of duck. Then, as if to test the supremacy of his
training, and in defiance of his own assertion that he really did not
care for desserts, he executed the Progres au Grand Marnier, an
elaborate, difficult chocolate confection. The success of the meal
is an indication of Robertos professional, polished approach to
cooking.

Roberto comments frequently upon the quality of ingredients in
California. He mentions specifically the white asparagus, formerly
available only as a French import, and the fresh produce. But unlike
many of his contemporaries, he is suspicious of herbs, which are
gaining increasing popularity in many kitchens. "Im not crazy about
spices. They have to be used the right way. Sometimes people overuse
spices, to hide something. You know, spices are our enemy sometimes."

He also appreciates other advantages to living in California.
with his wife, he owns a house in a small town near San Francisco
where he spends much of his time in the yard. "Gardening is my
passion. I raise herbs, flowers, even olive trees."

As he talks, Roberto gestures emphatically with his hands and
emphasizes his thoughts with little puffs of air blown between pursed
lips. Cooking has provided him a pleasurable life, but he has worked
very hard for his achievements. He spent long hours as a young
apprentice learning the intricacies of his profession, and he has
little patience with the legions of amateurs who would open their own
restaurants without sufficient training. "Sure, the dream of any
chef is to own his own restaurant, but so many dont understand the
pressure. You have to give up a lot, and you need dedication."

Still, he finds great joy in the process of refining his skills.
"Anybody can cook. The important difference is to keep learning." He
will spend hours perfecting a new menu item to please his customers.
"I think thats the surprise of a new dish. Something about which
people will say. Wow, this is great. That makes ME feel great."

Menu: Chez Michel

Mousseline of Frog Legs with Fresh Pasta
(Small mousse of frog legs served with fresh pasta and a
white wine and butter sauce.)

Stuffed Leg of Duck with Red Wine Sauce
Leg of duck stuffed with chicken livers, bacon, pork, and
truffles, baked, then served with Volnay and duck sauce.)

Progres with Grand Marnier
(Hazelnut biscuit topped with buttercream and chocolate mousse.)

Source: Great Chefs of San Francisco, Avon Books, 1984
Chef: Roberto Gerometta, Chez Michel, San Francisco, CA
From: Rob Stewart Date: 09-12-94


Source from luhu.jp

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